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        古城漫憶之一 遠去的足音

        來源: 作者:朱湘山 更新時間:2019/6/20 0:00:00 瀏覽:203 評論:0  [更多...]

        作為擁有3000多年建城歷史的榮耀古城,鐘祥曾有著驕人的過往,其專屬的詩風雅韻一直保留至今。從星光燦爛的春秋戰國之始,鐘祥就被綿長的詩意孕育滋養,至今,整個城市仍氤氳著濃厚的生活美學,一不注意就會走到文人墨客留下佳句名篇的地方,讓人流連忘返,駐足感傷。

        我的初中是在鐘祥一中讀的,縣城里有些小山,所以鐘祥又稱為山城。所謂的山,實際上就是略高于地面的幾個土崗而已,如今城市里高樓林立,早就看不出那山的崔嵬和森林的幽深了。很有文化底蘊的鐘祥人,給每座崗、每條路都起了詩意盎然的名字:一中所在的山崗叫蘭臺山,縣師范所在的高坡叫崇古山,縣化肥廠的山頭叫楠木山,縣醫院在的地方叫子胥臺,寺坡那里叫龍山,皇城所在的地方叫松林山(后改名叫純德山),南湖叫鏡月湖,北門湖后來改成了莫愁湖。至于街道,諸如王府大道,承天大道,莫愁大道,齊楚大道,陽春大街等不勝枚舉。

        我在縣城的時光,也是一生中最難忘的一段時光,真正體驗了一把當城里人的樂趣。清晨,夜幕尚未退盡,掛在校門口樹上的大鐘悠揚的迴響,宣告了山城一天生活的開始;夜晚,蘭臺山上閃爍的燈光,點燃老街每一個不眠的夜晚。星期天或者每天晚飯以后,我們約上三五同學從學校出來,穿過蘭臺路,走出五金巷,順著東街邊走邊聊,再從中果園街、城關一小門前經韓家街、人武部、老縣委的門前返回學校。街上行人稀少,走在石板鋪就的老街上,感受著習習晚風和靜謐的月光,只覺得身心都空靈了起來。

        老街的布局,分為古城內和古城外兩個區域。古城內以興王府、安陸府、宋玉宮、蘭臺書院和陽春臺為中心,向古城周邊幅射開去;古城外以元佑宮、古碼頭街向古城靠近,形成古城之南的繁華景象。 城南有一條護城河,通過太平閘連接著漢江和南湖的水系,河水緩緩流淌,鐘靈毓秀,寧靜典雅,記載著山城的滄桑。

        當時,鐘祥的主要街道是一南一北兩條,在鐘祥商場交叉,南北叫陽春大街,東邊叫東街。往西邊叫碼頭街,漢水沒有改道時可以直通江邊碼頭,后來離漢江有些遙遠了,兩邊就變成漢江大隊的菜地;往東的街很長,有些高低起伏,一直通到寺坡上,在快到寺坡的坡上時又分出一條街,名字叫中果園街,連接了糧食局和縣醫院,和東街并行的一條北街,人們叫韓家街,中果園街和韓家街建筑都是古色古香的,有點像現在的湘西鳳凰古鎮。

        郢中的古老街道,多數是青石板路。典型的是皇城門街、碼頭街、鼓樓坡巷、縣門坡巷等。路中間是長約一米、寬約半米、厚達十多公分的長條形青石板,兩邊護著小塊青石或古城磚,形成拱脊的路面,路面寬度在兩米左右。人走在上面,感覺平坦舒適,古樸典雅。那一塊塊蒼涼又不失溫潤的青石板,不知浸潤了人們多少年多少輩的汗水,凝聚了人們多少情感和鄉愁。當腳步踩在它上面時,仿佛有一種和歷史時空對話的感慨;冬天,呼嘯的北風從北湖吹來,晶瑩的雪花灑落在大街小巷,石板上堆積著厚厚的積雪,屋檐下掛著一排排冰凌,又在南風的吹拂和行人的腳步中慢慢溶化。 夏天,常有雷雨,經過雨水沖刷的石板泛著青色的光,午后的陽光照射在上面,映著行人的倒影,像是鏡中的世界。偶爾一兩聲“熟菱角哦”的叫賣在身后響起,悠長的回響在小巷里彌久不散。

        東街兩邊分布著鐘表店、醫藥公司、旅社、五金公司、理發社、生資土產門市部、照相館、清真飯店、木器社和鐵器鋪等等,房子大部分是木質結構的青瓦建筑,分上下兩層,保持著明清時代的原始風貌,給人以返璞歸真的寧靜,房頂上生長著瓦松,門面是清一色的門板,上面寫著東一東二或西一西二的粉筆字,許是為了打烊時的便利。在青石板上走路的時候,鞋底會發出“篤篤”的聲音,一聲聲韻律中,仿佛在聆聽千年的古韻楚聲,到了晚上,街燈次第點亮,間或從某處的樓上響起悠揚的琴聲飄向遠處,各色茶樓酒肆彩燈朦朧,曖昧而細碎,悠閑又舒適。下雨天,暮雨又細又輕,像是熟悉了鐘祥人的脾氣,輕輕地落在黛瓦的槽里,落在屋檐下的紅燈籠上,落在掛在墻上的青藤上,人影綽綽,腳步輕盈,悠遠寧靜,撐一把油紙傘走在雨里,情不自禁地就會想到那首著名的《雨巷》:

         

        撐著油紙傘,獨自

        彷徨在悠長,悠長

        又寂寥的雨巷,

        我希望逢著

        一個丁香一樣地

        結著愁怨的姑娘。

        她是有

        丁香一樣的顏色,

        丁香一樣的芬芳,

        丁香一樣的憂愁,

        在雨中哀怨,

        哀怨又彷徨;

        她彷徨在這寂寥的雨巷,

        撐著油紙傘

        像我一樣,

        像我一樣地

        默默彳亍著,

        冷漠,凄清,又惆悵。

        ……

         

        在春秋戰國時代,鐘祥被稱為郊郢,就是現在的郢中,系楚國的陪都。那彎彎曲曲的街道,那林立的店鋪,那古色古香的門匾,那班駁的墻面,還有那屋頂上瘋長的瓦松,它們組合在一起,如同一幅水墨丹青,意境幽遠,訴說著年代久遠的況味。

        郢中的老街因勢而建,背靠故都,西臨漢江,歷經三千余年,經久不衰。以其雄偉、險峻、起伏而著稱,以其靈氣、秀美、溫潤而揚名。她不似江南的水鄉——小橋、流水、人家,給人以溫馨之感,卻獨有山城特色,有山有水,人杰地靈,是一副山水相映的古城畫卷。

        老街的格局,分為古城內和古城外兩個區域。古城內以興王府、安陸府、宋玉宮、蘭臺書院和陽春臺為中心,向古城周邊幅射開去;古城外以元佑宮、古碼頭街向古城靠近,形成古城之南的繁華景象, 城南有一條護城河,通過太平閘連接著漢江和南湖的水系,河水緩緩流淌,鐘靈毓秀,寧靜典雅,記載著山城的滄桑。

        那時,我走在郢中老街,既遠看興王宮、元佑宮的宮廷建筑,又可近觀承天府的官衙建筑,還能感受市民百姓的民居建筑,真是各有特色,各領風騷。

        在承天府衙,曾有一棟兩層的古建樓房,靠府衙的最北端,上下十多間,木制樓板,經久耐用,在古建樓房中當屬少見,具有很高的文物價值,很可惜上世紀九十年代被撤除建了新樓。

        今天,很多老街已經不復存在,留下深刻記憶的也只有東街那幾條主要的街道,單兩邊的建筑已經不是原來的模樣。

        這些年來,鐘祥家鄉不乏有人為了尋古探幽,追尋詩和遠方,往返數千里前往湘西參觀古鎮老街,其實,鐘祥老街文化哪怕只是保存一小部分,也足以和湘西的老街媲美,可惜有的城市的在建造鋼筋水泥的熱潮中,一味地追求樓房的高度和道路的寬度,缺失了應有的定力和矜持,隨波逐流的結果,讓歷經滄桑的郢中老街幾經磨難,日益平庸。古城、古宅、老街、老路,有的拆除,有的翻新,到現在,城區的范圍擴大了數倍,老街文化卻已經消失殆盡,城市變得時髦和高大上的同時,個性和靈魂卻沒了,曾經的雨巷足音漸行漸遠,鄉愁也只能永遠留在人們的記憶之中。

         

        她靜默地遠了,遠了,

        到了頹圮的籬墻,

        走盡這雨巷。

        在雨的哀曲里,

        消了她的顏色,

        散了她的芬芳

        消散了,甚至她的

        太息般的眼光,

        丁香般的惆悵。

        ……

         

        令人欣慰的是,有的城市管理者在靜心思考之后,重新發現了老街文化巨大的商業價值,正在營造一些精心設計的復古老街,比如浙江的橫店影視基地、杭州的宋城,江蘇的太湖影視城,湖北的武漢楚河漢街、襄陽的唐城,河南開封的清明上河園,湖南長沙的黃興路和火宮塘,以及海南的海口觀瀾湖電影公社等。但人們心中的老街舊巷,并不是能輕易“刷新”的回憶,鄉愁寂寥,情懷如夢,光陰的故事濃縮成一個個片段,散落于歷史的滄桑之中。

        我記憶中的鐘祥老街啊,你還能再現昔日的倩影嗎?

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