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        您當前的位置: 首頁  »  人文快訊

        端午的色香味

        來源:光明日報 作者:趙麗宏 更新時間:2019/6/8 0:00:00 瀏覽:272 評論:0  [更多...]

        關于端午節的記憶,有顏色,有香氣,更有詩的韻味。

        端午節的顏色,是綠色,是來自田野水泊的青碧之色。端午臨近時,家家戶戶都在家門口掛起新鮮的艾草和菖蒲。節日未到,那清新的綠色就已經上了門。

        兒時過端午節,印象最深的當然是粽子。那時城里人都是自己包粽子,菜場里能買到各種粽葉:蘆青、竹葉、荷葉、筍殼。街頭巷尾也能看到從鄉下來的農民守著一攤攤綠色,那是他們剛從湖畔河岸采來的蘆葦葉。小時候吃的粽子,大多是用蘆葉包的。碧綠的蘆葉,用清水洗干凈,浸在盆里,粽子還沒有開始包,粽葉的清香已經到處可以聞到。用來包粽子的糯米、赤豆、紅棗、花生,用醬油浸透的豬肉,已經準備好放在鍋里盆里。端午節的前兩天,是包粽子的日子,上一輩的大人,都會包粽子。我的祖母,就是包粽子的好手,蘆葉在她靈巧的手上翻飛,很快就包出了各種式樣不同的粽子,三角粽、四角粽、牛角粽、小腳粽、枕頭粽。她還會用一張蘆葦葉,包成一只只小小的粽子,用線連綴成一串,這是祖母專門為孩子們包的項鏈粽。

        煮粽子的時候,粽子的香味從每一扇門,每一扇窗戶里飄出來,整個弄堂,整個城市,整個世界,仿佛都被粽子的香味籠罩。

        大人包粽子時,孩子們會用蘆葦葉做哨子。用一張蘆葉,卷成筒狀,就是一個蘆葉哨,可以吹出各種聲音,還能吹成曲調。小的蘆葉哨,吹出來的是高亢尖銳的聲音。在小蘆葉哨上用蘆葉一張一張接著卷,卷成長長的喇叭狀,鼓起腮幫用力吹,可以吹出粗獷渾厚的聲音。蘆葉哨的聲音在城市里此起彼伏,這是端午節期間特有的聲音。

        端午的氣息,當然不僅僅是粽子的香味。掛在門口的艾草菖蒲散發著清香,噴灑的雄黃酒、那些浸染著雄黃、艾草、茴香和花香的彩色香袋,也在不同的角落散發著香氣。大人們說,艾草菖蒲和雄黃,可以避邪驅瘴,也可以驅趕蚊蠅。大人在孩子額頭用雄黃粉畫一個“王”字,額頭上有“王”字的孩子便認為自己變成了老虎,帶著雄黃的氣息到處蹦跶。

        五月初五,正是仲夏之始,大地草木葳蕤,到處是盛開的鮮花。花的香氣,就是端午的香氣。女人們選那些小而精致的,有著清雅香氣的花朵,點綴端午的氣氛。梔子花、白蘭花、艾草葉、石榴花,插在發髻,佩在胸口,戴在腕上,在這個節日里,女人身上帶著花香,花草的清芬和女性的氣息融合為一體。端午,是追求優雅和美的時節。

        和端午節相關的,絕不僅僅是花草和粽子,端午節,和詩人屈原的名字連在一起,這個古老節日真正的氣味,應該是詩的韻味。小時候就聽老人說,過端午節,就是為了紀念大詩人屈原。屈原憂國憂民,在汨羅江自沉,人們在河里競舟,是為了尋找消失在急流中的詩人,往河里投粽子,為的是喂魚,這樣可以保護投江的屈原。賽龍舟,包粽子,成為端午節的風俗。千百年來,很多詩人寫過和端午有關的詩,詩中大多寫到端午的風俗。在讀過的端午詩中,印象最深的是蘇軾的詞《六幺令·天中節》:

        虎符纏臂,佳節又端午。

        門前艾蒲青翠,天淡紙鳶舞。

        粽葉香飄十里,對酒攜樽俎。

        龍舟爭渡,助威吶喊,憑吊祭江誦君賦。

        感嘆懷王昏聵,悲戚秦吞楚。

        異客垂涕淫淫,鬢白知幾許?

        朝夕新亭對泣,淚竭陵陽處。

        汨羅江渚,湘累已逝,惟有萬千斷腸句。

        蘇軾的詞,猶如一幅筆墨靈動的國畫長卷,描繪出那個時代端午節的風俗景象,門前掛艾草菖蒲,天上飛紙鷂風箏,包粽子,喝雄黃酒,賽龍舟,憑吊屈原。詞的下片,是對屈原的懷念,詩中的“湘累”,是屈原的別稱,“湘累已逝”,然而,詩人震撼天地的“萬千斷腸句”,卻仍在人間流傳。那“萬千斷腸句”,是《九歌》,是《離騷》,是《天問》,是飛翔在天地間的詩魂。

        蘇軾寫端午的詞,題為《天中節》,這是端午節的別稱。端午節,是中國傳統節日中別稱最多的一個,除了“天中節”,端午節還被稱為龍舟節、重午節、端陽節、夏節、艾節、菖蒲節、女兒節、正陽節、龍日節,等等。唐代以前,常用的名稱是“五月初五”,唐以后,“端午”才成為大多數中國人對這個節日的稱呼。端午節的別名中,有“詩人節”和“屈原日”,這也許是這個傳統節日真正的主題。在很多人的心目中,端午節就是詩歌節,因為這個節日和一個偉大詩人的名字連在一起。

        (作者:趙麗宏,詩人、上海作協副主席、《上海文學》雜志社社長)

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