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        付秀瑩:五月榴花照眼明

        來源:人民日報海外版 作者:付秀瑩 更新時間:2019/6/8 0:00:00 瀏覽:206 評論:0  [更多...]

        端午節也稱端陽節、天中節,因時為農歷五月初五,故本名端五,也叫重五、重午。《紅樓夢》里,寫到了很多端午習俗。譬如掛香囊。賈云從倪二那里借了銀子,買了冰片、麝香,趕著“鳳姐正是辦端陽的節禮,采買香料藥餌的時節”,孝敬了王熙鳳。譬如贈扇子。元春賞賜的端午節禮里面,有兩樣眾人皆有的,“宮扇兩柄,紅麝香珠兩串”。扇子是古人端陽之后、盛暑之時手邊身側離不得的物件,晴雯跌扇、撕扇也正是在端午前后。第三十一回更是直筆寫道,“這日正是端陽佳節,蒲艾簪門,虎符系臂。午間,王夫人治了酒席,請薛家母女等賞午。”至于賽龍舟,喝雄黃,沐蘭湯等,更是自古以來,禮俗深厚。“五月榴花妖艷烘。綠楊帶雨垂垂重,五色新絲纏角粽。金盤送,生綃畫扇盤雙鳳。”歐陽修的這闕《漁家傲》,便活潑潑畫出一幅宋代端午的民間小景。千載之下,如在眼前。

        在我的故鄉,過端午倒沒有這么多繁文縟節,簡單得近乎樸素了。家家戶戶包粽子、吃粽子。大約也僅止于此。粽子古稱角黍。關于粽子最早的記載,是西晉新平太守周處所寫的《風土記》:仲夏端午,烹鶩角黍。在我們河北無極,粽子也沒有那么多花樣,一律是黃米紅棗,甜黏可口。黃米,又稱黍,糜子,夏小米。黍子去殼成黃米。黃米和小米同出北方,但在北方人眼里,黃米的地位,較小米更高。后來,才漸漸開始有江米粽子。黃米粽子倒成了老輩人念念不忘的口味,作為一種懷舊,或者一種習慣。記得那時候,每年臨近端午,母親便忙著泡米,泡紅棗,泡粽葉。粽葉是集市上買的。南方常用箬葉,北方則多用蘆葦葉,闊大碧綠,經了水的浸潤,越發添了一種特殊的清香,夾雜著植物濃郁的青氣。母親包的粽子,飽滿俊俏,團團可愛。一個一個盛在瓦盆里,青碧誘人。屋子里,米黃棗紅粽葉綠,說不完的家常絮語;院子里,陽光明亮,樹影搖曳,有蟬聲零落,有雞鳴犬吠。只覺得日月悠長,年歲靜好,有一種民間永恒的歡樂和喜悅在里面。

        煮粽子用的是那種大鐵鍋,好柴硬火,一煮就是一夜。只聽得廚房里的風箱噠噠噠噠不歇,香甜的味道在院子里彌漫開來。月影西斜,小孩子們等不及,終于去睡了。嘴角含笑,想必夢里都是粽子的滋味。清晨,當雞啼劃破淡淡曦光的時候,小村莊里便飄滿了粽子的香甜,家家戶戶都團團圍坐,吃粽子。母親派我給東家送三個,給西家送五個。一樣的粽子,不一樣的味道。

        這種粽子,最好是放涼了吃。北方五月天氣,已經漸漸大熱。從外頭回來,洗手剝一個涼粽子吃,香糯甜軟,立時暑氣頓消,滿口芬芳。小孩子們往往貪嘴,大人們便叮囑,不要多吃,粽子瓷實,當心不消化。可小孩子哪里管這些?《紅樓夢》第三十一回,寶玉和晴雯口角,黛玉走過來,笑道,大節下的怎么好好的哭起來?難道是為爭粽子吃爭惱了不成?雖不過是戲謔之語,卻也可見粽子確是端午時節人們的愛物。

        鄉下人家節儉,吃完粽子,粽葉不舍得丟棄。往往拿清水洗凈了,晾干,一沓一沓掛起來,以備來年再用。此后的一年里,那粽葉便被齊楚楚掛在那里,有點寂寞,有點孤清。主人家無意看見了,便念叨一句,呀,又快端午了。直到現在,吃完粽子,我總是下意識地要把粽葉收起來,想一想,到底還是罷了。不禁悵然。

        年年端午,正是石榴花盛開的時節。那時候,我家院子里種了一棵很大的石榴樹。端午前后,滿樹榴花夭夭灼灼,明艷動人。我們幾個女孩子在樹下嬉戲,笑著,鬧著,只覺得人世間盡是繁華鬧熱,盡是錦簇花團。要等到多年以后,我們才漸漸恍然,那榴花深處的童年光陰,那喧嘩聲動的端午佳節,實在是金子一般的歲月,美好而貴重,不可重現,不可再來。

        歲月流徙,而今,母親辭世已逾20載了。這世上,再沒有人給我包粽子吃了。這么多年了,遠離故土,在他鄉輾轉漂泊,見識了天南海北的各色粽子,遍嘗了以粽子為名的種種美味,我卻獨偏愛與懷念母親的粽子。

        端午節之于我,竟是鄉愁了。

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