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        “東坡”行村感吟

        來源: 作者:葉傳雄 更新時間:2019/6/8 0:00:00 瀏覽:355 評論:0  [更多...]


        標題中的“東坡”,借指望坡居士。有一次,望坡居士前來瓊中縣指導《瓊中黎族苗族民俗文化記憶》一書的編寫工作,期間他趁著跟隨我們到黎村收集民間傳說的機會,行村穿巷,有獨特之發現與感觸。之后,他把進村走訪的見聞和感受寫進兩首詩中,給人留下了美好的回憶。

        這是二○一七年五月二十七日的事情。記得,這天下午,天空烏云密布,路旁的樹葉被風吹得搖擺不止,看情形好像快要下雨了。按照計劃安排,我們要下鄉收集民間傳說,但考慮到天氣等因素,我們決定到附近一個叫檳榔園的黎村采訪。望坡居士聞之,要求我們也帶上他到此村走走看看。這樣,我、少才兄、劉霞、國傅和望坡居士一行五人,就乘車朝檳榔園黎村駛去。

        營根鎮檳榔園村位于縣城西邊左側四公里處。很久以前,村中有一戶人家在村前種植一大片檳榔樹,故名為檳榔園村。村南面多山,屬丘陵臺地區,其主要農作物是水稻、橡膠、檳榔。十五分鐘后,車子停在村文化室前。眾人下得車來,有人去參觀文化室,有人去村中找民間傳說記憶者,有人去村中行走、觀光。此時,我仔細觀察,這村周圍是一片片的檳榔園、橡膠園,而村前的檳榔樹則亭亭玉立,猶如一大群美麗的少女,正深情地注視著我們的到來呢。一條彎彎的小溪自東向西流去,為村前添加了亮色。

        一會兒,山雨飄然而至,我們就到村中央一戶人家里躲雨。

        此村中央有一塊約摸一百平方米的地方,群石挺立,千姿百態,形象各異。那群石,有的像仙人指路,有的像金龜望月,有的像神童站在主人身旁,惟妙惟肖,栩栩如生,令人難忘。我們在村中訪問一名叫王積清的老年人才得知,這些石頭都是寶貝,很早就被村民當做神來加以保護。王積清說,這些石頭還有一個傳說呢。相傳,村中的這些石頭,它們是神仙派來守護此村的。它們伏在村子的正中,石身挨著石身,看上去像是一群烏龜聚在一起。它們像是在睡覺,又像是在聊天,更像是龜族的某個大家庭在一起慶祝著什么。一代接著一代的老年人都說,這群石龜是這個村的保護神,如果沒有這群石龜,村子就會發生不好的事情。所以,歷代村民為了保護這個村的好風水,不管是什么時候,都不允許有人做破壞石頭和破壞風水的事情。

        在檳榔園村,我們還收集到《檳榔園村與總兵的傳說》《檳榔園村的來歷》《種山蘭稻的故事》等故事。望坡居士說,這些故事,傳說色彩很濃,值得記錄、整理,使之流傳下來。

        在返回的路上,望坡居士說,他剛才在村中行走時看到一些有趣的畫面,剛完成的兩首詩中就把這些畫面描繪出來。說完,他通過微信形式把詩傳給我,我當即打開微信,認真閱讀望坡居士的詩。望坡居士的詩,體裁為七絕,全詩如下:


        山嶺橫斜煙靄迷,花明香暗若相思。

        檳榔帶雨亭亭立,羞與騷人賦小詩。

        ——《黎村小景》


        恍是當年笠屐翁,行村穿巷興方濃。

        兒童驚見回身走,躲人家門偷露容。

        ——《黎村小景之二》


        望坡居士這兩首詩,寫的是他行走檳榔園黎村時的所見所感。第一首,描繪此村的環境,寫得很有特色。遠看,東面高高的山嶺被濃濃煙靄包裹著,使人總看不清山體的模樣;近處,路旁有鮮艷的花朵,很是奪人眼球,那陣陣幽香襲來,令人心動。雨天里的檳榔樹亭亭玉立,就像美少女,見詩人來了,她感到很害羞,更不要說與詩人對視、吟詩。比喻手法運用得很貼切,使人如臨其境,如見其人。第二首,詩人是說,他好像是當年的蘇東坡一樣,很有興趣地在黎村中行走。他在黎村,或觀看民居,或了解民情,或與民喝茶聊天、講笑話,都樂此不疲。有意思的是,他今天在檳榔園村與兒童相見時的情景:兒童見到他,把他當成是威風八面的大人物,故回身快走,躲到家里去,還從門縫處偷偷往外看呢。這個兒童躲就躲罷,還在偷看,這說明什么?老人解釋說,黎村兒童少見外人,見了外人他好像是見到神靈一樣,感到害怕,故很快就躲開了。山村兒童是天真、幼稚的,其見到外人的動作是很有趣味的,此即一例。詩人把這個情景描繪出來,且畫面感很強,給人的印象是深刻的。這樣的情景,唐代詩人賀知章也寫過,但賀知章和望坡居士的描繪是不相同的。唐代賀知章在《回鄉偶書》(其一)中的詩句是這樣:“少小離家老大回,鄉音無改鬢毛衰。兒童相見不相識,笑問客從何處來。”這里,我們看到,賀知章回鄉也見到兒童,但從他的詩句中我們感受不到有風趣,讀出來的只是無限傷心的感慨而已。

        “恍是當年笠屐翁”,詩句中的“笠屐翁”指的就是蘇東坡。望坡居士在其大著《恍榔載酒》一書中對“笠屐翁”蘇東坡就作了生動的描述:“一次,蘇東坡去拜訪黎子云,途中突然下起了雨。海南的天氣多變,雨何時來、何時去,是不需要任何理由的。蘇東坡趕快就近躲到一戶農家,外面雨還沒有完全停下來,他就借一頂箬笠戴在頭上,一雙木屐穿在腳下,走了出來。這一下可熱鬧了。蘇東坡雖是流放之人,然而畢竟尚有著名譽上的官職,還是穿官服的,何況他曾長期在朝廷和地方上做大官呢?荒村野里,哪里來過這么大的官?即使不穿官服,至少也穿中原漢人服裝吧。一開始,衣著十分簡單的儋耳人很不習慣老先生的裝束,蘇東坡在村中出現,大家都爭相出來觀看。久而久之,人們對這服飾已經習慣了。現在,老先生身著寬大的漢衣,頭上卻戴著黎家婦女的斗笠,腳下穿著黎家男人的木屐,突然以這種不倫不類的裝飾出現在里巷街道,大家都覺得好玩了。于是婦人、孩子,爭相跑出來,跟在他后面拍手說笑,連村上的狗也不認得了,也出來吠叫著湊熱鬧。蘇東坡卻十分得意,他覺得自己真正回到了淳樸天真的老百姓生活。一位大學者、大文豪、文壇泰斗,曾經做過正三品官的老人,身著漢裝,頭上卻帶著一個斗笠,腳下踏著木屐,走在雨泥之中,是一種怎樣的姿態呢?事情不脛而走,有人立即畫一幅東坡笠屐圖。笠屐圖很快傳到東坡手中,東坡看后大笑,濡翰題曰:‘人所笑也,犬所吠也,笑亦怪也。’此后,東坡笠屐成了中國美術史上極為有趣的題材。”

        閱讀望坡居士這兩首詩,我自然地就聯想到當年蘇東坡在黎村行走的情景。元符二年(1099),蘇東坡被酒獨行,半醉半醒,還訪遍了四位黎族朋友,總角的黎家兒童視詩人為親人,吹著蔥葉迎來送往,顯示了作者清貧寧靜、隨緣自適、與當地人民親密無間的生活意趣。東坡遠離官場,心態安詳,投身自然,如歸故鄉,與村童鄉老追隨而樂,正合他的人生旨趣。心寬天地大,詩潮滾滾來。這一年,蘇東坡作詩,詩題為《被酒獨行,遍至子云、威、徽、先覺四黎之舍三首》。我們選其一、其二,其一是這樣的:“半醒半醉問諸黎,竹刺藤梢步步迷。但尋牛矢覓歸路,家在牛欄西復西。”其二是這樣的:“總角黎家三四童,口吹蔥葉送迎翁。莫作天涯萬里意,溪邊自有舞雩風。”對蘇東坡這兩首詩,望坡居士是研究過的,他說,宋代時,海南農村每一戶房屋自然散落在茂密的樹林之中,與大自然完全融合。當時蘇東坡家在城西,距離黎家村落有數里之遙。半醒半醉的蘇東坡在這種完全自然化的村落里轉悠已經是辨不清方向了,尋找走出村落回家的荒野小徑則更是不容易。好在老先生從來沒有真醉過。這時他那如鄉村野老一樣樸野天真的聰明智慧發揮了作用,他忽然記起一路上牛踩過的痕跡。追牛矢,認路回家,詩的靈感因此觸發,一首好詩就這樣寫出來了。讀第二首詩,讓人想到大才子袁枚的一句話。清代袁枚說,詩人者,不失赤子之心也。蘇東坡擁有著童心的真美,也善于用童心發現兒童之美。蘇東坡遍訪四黎,沒有記錄與四黎相見的情景,卻把在路途中遇到的幾個兒童記錄到了優美的詩句,難道不更加耐人尋味嗎?可見,望坡居士和東坡居士的詩都是一組,且都充滿風趣和趣事,有異曲同工之妙也。

        入夜,我再讀望坡先生作于檳榔園村的詩歌作品,其有趣場景一一浮現在眼前,輾轉反側,不能入睡,遂作和詩一首,即韻和步望坡居士詩,全詩是:


        檳榔村里現群石,四季安民事亦奇。

        陣陣山歌飄萬里,蓬萊夢境有題詩。

        ——和望坡居士《黎村小景》


        攜友黎村訪老翁,檳榔欣迓證情濃。

        騷人感作清新句,天上東坡亦動容。

        ——和望坡居士《黎村小景之二》

         

        完成和詩,我感到輕松多了。之后,便安靜地入睡,還甜甜地進入了夢鄉中。

         

        二○一七年七月十日初稿

        二○一八年三月九日二稿

        二○一九年六月七日三稿


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