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        北仍村:揮之不去的鄉愁

        來源: 作者:朱湘山 更新時間:2019/6/4 0:00:00 瀏覽:229 評論:0  [更多...]


        車行瓊海,夜宿官塘的御泉莊酒店,滿眼的翠綠,把這片溫泉小鎮覆蓋。放下行囊,我們走出酒店的庭院,見對面有一村落,門口寫著:北仍村,一條小路向濃蔭深處蜿蜒而去。已是午后,游人多已離開,沒有絲毫嘈雜喧嘩,連大聲也未曾聽見,西斜的陽光照在路邊高大的檳榔林中,為秋日的小村罩上一層迷離,椰樹和檳榔圍裹的村舍,仿佛一個私家園林,偶爾會有一些鳥鳴可聞,更有雀巢與農舍之影相依。風輕云淡,遺世而立,信步走去,瞬間就溶化在這恬靜祥和的世外桃源之中。

        北仍:仍然掛念北國故鄉,這個名字恰好將她——一個枝葉婆娑的南國小村與遙遠的北方故土牽引在了一起,使她一開始便裹上了“鄉愁”的味道。

        特定年代的歷史感撲面而來,耳畔仿佛傳來一聲呼喚:“大家注意啦,開會啦!” 北仍,這座緣于“思念北方”的村落,200多年里已經在海南土地上扎了根,生出了自己的個性和稟賦,又孕育了新的“鄉愁”內涵。據說,當年他們的祖先在這里定居之為了不忘記北方的故鄉,就把村名叫做“北仍村”,并且一直沿用至今。

        在這個天天造樓的時代,北仍村沒有急切投入到“蓋高樓建新城”的洪流中,而是依托自身獨特的資源,打造了一個能夠“望得見山,看得見水,記得住鄉愁”的桃源秘境,不僅延續了北仍人數百年的鄉愁記憶,也讓這片鄉土又重新煥發出了生命力。

        村子里有兩座小咖啡屋:草寮咖啡和庭院時光,每個咖啡小屋都有自己的特色:周邊密林掩映,籠罩著濃濃的鄉愁情韻,比起那些城市中鋼筋水泥間的咖啡館更富有氛圍。 院中一坐,陽光透過葉隙投射到咖啡杯中,林間水霧和咖啡香味交融在一起,靜靜地沉浸在夢幻的咖啡感覺里,在苦澀的品味里感受超然物外的玄妙回味,氤氳似幻境。有人談著幾個億的生意,有人聊家長里短,彩票碼經,在這里,一切和諧自然,絕不突兀。

        在這里,很多村民把自己家變成了農舍旅店,不設圍墻,層層密林就是天然屏障,架空的木地板與樹木之間緊密扣合,渾然一體。頗具復古色彩的餐桌就擺在樹下,效果很是驚艷。

        一位阿叔躺在自家門前的吊床上,不遠處擺放著自制的美食和飲品,客人需要就微信掃碼自取,在這里,你或許知道躺著賺錢是一種什么感覺了。忙完農活以后,村民在家門口做起小生意,這種不用離家外出就可以賺錢的生活方式,是多少人夢寐以求卻羨慕不到的。

        逛累了,這里還有各式各樣的特色小吃犒賞自己。椰絲雞矢籐味道爽滑糯甜,別具風味,很多人嘗過之后,還會特意買幾斤雞矢籐回家自己煮來吃。五色繽紛的粿品同樣惹人喜愛。一塊油滑透亮的糯米粿,初入口,糯米的軟潤與彈性在牙間跳舞,接著甜味漸出,清香令人回味。 當然,最不能錯過的是官塘地區的招牌——溫泉鵝,被這片水土滋養大的鵝,肥而不膩,口感細膩,醇香可口,已經成為海南又一大備受熱捧的名菜。

        在北仍村,當年的那些老物件兒,至今保存完好,銹蝕斑駁不知承載多少日月輪回,時代滄桑:煤油燈、熱水壺、磨盤、石臼、水井、殘缺的木椅、方桌……似在與先人對話。本以為不可復制的回憶如今在這里被一幕幕喚醒。小時候家里的廚房就是茅草屋,住房是瓦房,常常由于燒柴做飯不當引起火災,村里一旦有火災馬上敲擊掛在樹上的拖拉機鐵輪,當當當…… 村內的古井為這個寧靜的村子平添了一絲靈動,井中水色清澈,讓人不由地想打上一桶,享受一番從頭淋到腳的暢快!

        村東側的“北仍客廳”大概是這個村里最“隆重”的場所了,把“會議室”稱之為客廳,是北仍村獨特的文化特色。格局、擺設儼然是村民自家傳統的客廳,同時開放式的設計又像是時刻都在歡迎賓客的到來。舊時的“喜”字窗欞、臺階鉆出的一叢綠苔蘚、廢棄陶罐化身的拙樸花瓶……每個細節都讓都市人倍感驚喜。

        路邊樹上成熟到裂開的菠蘿蜜常常無人采摘,成了松鼠的美味大餐。村子里家家夜不閉戶,屋里屋外,滿是醉人的綠意,素不相識的村民在自家門口對游人說上一句“進來坐坐”,心就貼在了一起。這里綠道蜿蜒,繁花錦簇,在北仍村的檳榔、椰樹和田園綠野中穿越而過,將村舍、綠林、田野相互串聯。

        鄉愁,是每一個海外游子共同的情感,也是人類文學永恒的題材,此情若是能了,人間再無良宵。記住了鄉愁,就記住了自己的根,記住了剪不斷,理還亂的故園情結。在北仍,一杯咖啡、一座老屋,一絲花香,都能勾起心底的鄉愁。不管是聶華苓“走到千山外,鄉情水長流”,還是舒蘭的“三十年前,你從柳樹梢頭望我:我正年少,你圓,人也圓;三十年后,我從椰樹林望你,你是一杯鄉色酒,你滿,鄉愁也滿”的詩句,游子的所有情感都在竹籬草寮和明月清輝里愈拉愈遠,漸遠漸濃。

        夜幕降臨時分,我們順著鄉道向酒店走去,耳畔響起那首熟悉的月與鄉愁的詩:

         

        我的月亮憔悴地掛在

        故鄉蒼白的頸項

        露珠上光影圓潤了阿婆

        一臉的滄桑和記憶

        直到被晨雞顆顆叼起

        吞進時光的胃里

        我在記憶中屢屢翻起

        一篇一篇的月影

        從阿婆的幼時直到

        墻上的黃昏這月亮

        已在我的眼中幻化成了

        故鄉阡陌間的任何一個晨昏

        蓑衣斗笠淌下的是什么?

        是我認定的月亮的淚啊!

        我在這淚水中

        睡進了故鄉的月影

        那鼾聲也變成了方言的遺韻......

         

        此時,一輪彎月掛在北仍村的上方,秋蟲在呢喃,螢火蟲在草叢里劃過。家家的燈籠亮了,門卻是開著。告別繁華浮躁的城市生活,我們靜靜地走著,飄忽不定的足音隨著夜風掠過憩息著的鄉道,北仍村的夜色仿佛暗夜的一縷清香,將遠離喧囂世界的我們一點一點溶化,在鄉愁的回味中帶著那么一點甘甜。 

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