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        王雪婷:包粽子

        來源:海南日報文化周刊 作者:王雪婷 更新時間:2019/5/26 0:00:00 瀏覽:253 評論:0  [更多...]

        我的老家在萬寧。

        上世紀九十年代前,萬寧人端午節吃粽子,不像如今這樣到市場上買,幾乎都是自己包,或是親戚朋友送。包粽子是家庭主婦的手藝活。我們家,奶奶是包粽子的好手。我母親嫁給我爸前,并不怎么會包粽子,但到我們家后,奶奶硬是把母親調教為包粽子的好手。

        我十六歲那年,也就是母親病逝的前一年,農歷四月底,母親上街買回粽子葉。后來我才知道,萬寧人包粽子用的葉子叫柊葉。何為柊葉?清代屈大均在《廣東新語》里說:“有柊葉者,狀如芭蕉葉,濕時以裹角黍,干以包苴物,封缸口。”柊葉不但能包粽子,萬寧菜市過去賣魚,還用它包魚呢。包粽子主要材料是粽葉、麻、豬肉、糯米等。

        母親帶我到庭院前面的黃槿樹前,叫我砍直的樹枝。我問母親,砍樹枝何用?母親說,用來包粽子啊。原來,萬寧人俗稱黃槿樹為“糠麻”,從它的樹枝上剝下的皮,韌性很好,久煮不爛,是綁粽子的好材料。萬城的風俗是五月初一開始吃粽子。農歷四月三十日下午,母親開始洗柊葉,然后放在大鍋里煮。我問母親,為何要煮粽子葉?母親說,青粽葉有點苦澀,青時,很脆,容易破,煮后,澀水少了,脆變成了軟,包粽子不易破裂。母親把粽葉從鍋里撈出后,我看到,煮粽葉的水像紅茶湯,也許,這就是母親所說的苦澀之水。

        粽葉煮后還要用清水洗一次。母親洗粽葉,并叫我拿干毛巾把粽葉擦干。我說,為何要擦干?母親說,包粽子,除講究衛生外,還講究味道,如果粽葉上帶水多,就會沖淡粽子的味道。后來我才漸漸體會到,包粽子如炒菜,講技術,講細節,美味就是從這些細節顯現的。

        洗完粽葉,母親開始腌豬肉。母親說,包粽子的肉最好選五花肉。我問為何?母親說,五花肉肥瘦皆宜,因為沒有肥肉,就沒有油,糯米是靠油來滋潤才好吃。腌肉,使粽子的味道更濃醇。肉腌好后,母親又把泡在水里的糯米撈起來,放在小簸箕里。母親說,包粽子,糯米要泡軟,這樣才好煮。同時,一定要把泡后的糯米水濾干。我問,為何?母親說,糯米的水不濾干,粽子的味道就差一節。因為煮粽子時,腌制后的豬肉味道與油,就會被糯米吸收進去,粽子的味道才好。如糯米里水份過多,它吸收豬肉味與油的能量就少,味道就差了。

        農歷四月三十日傍晚,母親端來小桌,開始包粽子。母親叫我坐在主座上,說,你已長大,作為王家的女兒,你得學會包粽子。我的手藝是你奶奶教的,現在我來教你。母親像很多主婦一樣,把包粽子手藝當家傳,難怪,我們村70后的女人,都會包粽子。母親叫我先給濾干水的糯米下鹽等調味,接著敷粽葉,大葉敷三片,小葉敷五片。我說,媽,葉子這么大,我看用一片就能包。母親說,是的,一片也能包粽子,但煮十個小時后容易破,水會滲透進去,粽子就沒味道了。你奶奶教我包粽子時說,包粽子不要惜粽葉,葉多點包得更加嚴實,這樣的粽子味道才濃醇。母親拿來一個小碗說,先打一碗糯米,一個粽子一碗米,這樣包出來的粽子大小均勻,煮時熟爛也均勻。如大的大小的小,大的還沒熟透,小的早已爛。母親要我把碗中三分之一的糯米倒在粽葉上,并用手弄平,接著叫我放豬肉。放肉時,母親說,放肉也要注意,肥瘦均勻。放好肉后,母親說,現在再把碗里的糯米全倒在肉上,并讓糯米把肉蓋好,不要讓肉露出來。我問,肉露出來又怎樣?母親說,肉露出糯米外,影響糯米吸收肉汁與油,會影響粽子的味道。如糯米把肉緊緊地包蓋在中間,豬肉受熱后流出的油與汁,就會被周圍的糯米很好地吸收,粽子的口感就會很好。如果豬肉露出在一邊,那另一邊的糯米就沒豬肉與油味了。想不到包粽子有這么的細節,這么多的講究。放好米后,母親叫我先把左邊的粽葉打向右邊,再把右邊的打向左邊,然后把打了折的粽葉拉往桌邊,葉子露出一寸多,再把露出的葉子順桌邊往下折按,然后把粽葉拿起按折的那頭朝下,輕輕的往桌上拍一下。母親說,這一輕拍,把粽子內里的豬肉與糯米拍實了。接著,母親說,現在再把上面的葉子左邊打右,右邊打左,然后按實葉子,沿糯米的邊端把尾葉子往下折按……我照母親所說操做,一個四方錐形的粽子出現在我的眼前。啊,我也會包粽子了。我高興,臉上洋溢著幸福的笑容。母親說,別光高興,還有活兒沒干完。綁。母親說,綁粽子要求嚴實。我按母親所說,拿起黃槿樹皮(糠麻),在錐體粽子的左邊綁一圈,又在右邊綁一圈,“糠麻”線綁扎處,出現一條小溝。打結好后交母親驗收。母親說,婷兒真聰明,一說就會,第一次就包得這么好……

        夜晚,母親把包好的粽子放在大鍋里,引火燒煮……

        次日清晨,母親把我與妹妹叫醒,說,吃粽子了。我因昨晚看母親煮粽子睡得晚,想賴一下床。妹妹一聽說吃粽子,立即跳起來,邊穿衣服邊說,姐,你不吃我去吃了。妹妹是吃貨,我不能輸給她。我說,別走,等等我……


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